David Butcher: Pedal Powered Prime Mover Do-It-Yourself DIY Plans. It's Time to Build Your Own Solution to Energy Generation The Pedal Powered Prime Mover (PPPM) can be assembled with standard hand tools (drill, hacksaw, wrench, pliers, screwdriver, etc.). There is no welding, brazing or machine-shop work required.
The PPPM can be used to power virtually anything that requires moderate amounts of electric power, spins, or rotates, as long as the effort required is within the capabilities of the rider. The Plans Tell You Everything You Need To Know The Pedal Powered Prime Mover plans consist of: A list of tools required to build the Pedal Powered Prime Mover A list of parts required to build the Pedal Powered Prime Mover Over 30 pages of detailed, step-by-step assembly instructions A CD with over 150 photographs of the assembly Your choice of an additional set of Free Plans: 12 Volt DC Generator Plans - Add a Generator to the PPPM for 12 Volt DC Output Roller Pump Plans - Add A Roller Pump to the PPPM to Pump Various Liquids How Do I Get Started?
Questions? 30% Tax Credit Geothermal Heating & Cooling Install - 2015 Geo thermal. Residential Energy-Efficient Property Credit. A 30% tax credit for the installation of a ground source heat pump (geothermal system) with no cap was enacted in 2009. This Tax credit is available through the end of 2016. See an example of geothermal by the numbers including how the tax credit added up. 30% of Entire System - Tax Credit (not deduction) The Tax Credit may be claimed for spending on 'Qualified Geothermal Heat Pump Property' installed in connection with a new or existing dwelling unit located in the United States and used as a residence by the taxpayer. 'Qualified Geothermal Heat Pump Property' means any equipment which - 1. 2. Labor costs associated with the installation of the geothermal heat pump property and any associated materials (piping, wiring, etc) are included.
Ductwork and emergency heat ineligible for tax credit The tax credit can be used to offset both regular income taxes and alternative minimum taxes. Example Home: Tax Credit: $26,000 x 30% = $7,800.00. Notes: 04. Pneuma. Classical antiquity[edit] Presocratics[edit] Pneuma, "air in motion, breath, wind," is equivalent in the material monism of Anaximenes to aer (ἀήρ, "air") as the element from which all else originated. This usage is the earliest extant occurrence of the term in philosophy.[4] A quotation from Anaximenes observes that "just as our soul (psyche), being air (aer), holds us together, so do breath (pneuma) and air (aer) encompass the whole world. " In this early usage, aer and pneuma are synonymous.[5] Ancient Greek medical theory[edit] The disciples of Hippocrates explained the maintenance of vital heat to be the function of the breath within the organism. Aristotle[edit] The "connate pneuma" of Aristotle is the warm mobile "air" that in the sperm transmits the capacity for locomotion and certain sensations to the offspring.
Stoic pneuma[edit] Judaism and Christianity[edit] In Judaic and Christian usage, pneuma is a common word for "spirit" in the Septuagint and the Greek New Testament. There's old insulation in the attic labeled "rock wool." Is it really dangerous asbestos? No, rock wool is not another name for asbestos. It is a type of thermal insulation made from rocks and minerals, unrelated to asbestos.
The material is also called mineral wool or slag wool, and some versions of it are actually a recycling of industrial furnace slag. The most common types of rock wool are categorized by the International Agency for Research on Cancer to be “not classifiable as carcinogenic to humans.” The material may, however, cause skin irritation, and it is always a good practice to wear gloves and other personal protective equipment while handling it. Rock wool is produced naturally during volcanic eruptions, which is how the fiber was first discovered: in the early 1900s, Hawaiian volcanologists found unusual, wool-like clusters of fiber hanging from trees around Mount Kilauea.
Experiments with the newly-found fibrous material uncovered it’s exceptional insulation qualities. ©2015 - McGarry and Madsen Inspection. Photo courtesy of InterNACHI. Speed Wrap® ESi Insulation for Straight Pipe | Speed Wrap Pipe Insulation. Modern House Plans by Gregory La Vardera Architect: What you don't know about Mineral Wool will make you look stupid. If you are interested in green building, or call yourself a green building expert, then you should know about Mineral Wool insulation.
If you have not seen Mineral Wool handled and installed, then you need to read this. If you think that Mineral Wool batts are similar enough to Fiberglass batts that you already know what you need to know about it, then you are a fool. And you still need to read this. image Randek AB If you are a regular reader here you know I am an advocate of using Mineral Wool insulation to improve the energy performance of the way we build houses in the US. So why am I constantly explaining why I like Mineral Wool, and what's good about Mineral Wool, and no, that's not what Mineral Wool is like - rather it is like this… It is because the green building community has almost universally decided that ole' fiberglass batt insulation is BAD.
Lets make this absolutely clear: There is Nothing wrong with insulation in the form of batts. First, low insulation values. Rockwool insulation - Forum. I have a layer of this in my attic which has been covered with loose blown fiberglass...and it's growing mold perhaps some other alien intelligence/ malevolence;) Considering my natural repulsion to fiberglass batt, seems like common sense blown fiberglass is a terrible idea, but I don't have the funds to replace all this material right now, and temporary encapsulation/ isolation is definitely needed for both layers. I don't "blame" these materials for the mold and other pathogens, previous roof leaks and animal intrusions/excretions seeded those, but the air quality in this house is poor to uninhabitable, and I'm wondering: 1) Is there some kind of fumigant or spray I can apply to kill pathogens and trap dust?
I'm thinking aling the lines of a humidifier filled with a bleach solution, and I attempted a pump-sprayer application of diluted Elmer's glue;) but it was too viscous. Didn't try diluting it with bleach just water;) Topping up Existing Insulation. Discussion on options to top up the existing material, either with blow-in insulation to fill all the gaps, or by laying batts over the top of the current material... Why would I top up my old insulation? If your insulation is more than 15-20 years old, it would have been only 50-80mm thick originally, and is not stopping your heat loss/gain. You will improve the temperature by 4-8 degrees by improving your insulation, as well as saving yourself hundreds of dollars each year. Best of all, new insulation is guaranteed for the life of the building, meaning you wont have to worry about it ever again! Do I lay batts on the old material, or pump insulation over the existing batts?
If your existing batts are very neatly laid, without settling or disturbance, it may be possible to effectively lay new batts on top of the old material. The most effective way to top-up old material is to pump insulation onto the old material. What types of insulation can be pumped over the old material? Save Water America: Home. Building Energy Efficient With Energy Management Software and Sustainable Materials. New insulation over old? Attic Air Sealing Project. Start with a sketch. This sketch will serve as a reference point once you get into the attic and will help you locate areas of air leakage.
Note dropped soffits over kitchen cabinets or bath vanities, slanted ceilings over stairways, areas where walls (interior and exterior) meet the ceiling, and any other dropped-ceiling areas. These areas may have open stud cavities leading directly into the attic and can be huge sources of air leaks. Look for common locations of attic air leaks. Behind and under kneewalls Attic hatch Wiring holes Holes for plumbing and pipes Dropped soffits that are open to the attic Recessed lights Furnace flue or duct chaseway (the hollow box or wall feature that hides ducts) Plug the big holes first. Don't worry about finding and sealing all the little holes in your attic; your biggest savings will come from plugging the large ones. Look for dirty insulation, which is evidence that air is moving through it.
Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Seal around furnace flues. Air Seal and Insulate with ENERGY STAR. Save Energy and Money. Air that leaks through your home's envelope − the outer walls, windows, doors, and other openings − wastes a lot of energy and increases your utility costs. A well-sealed envelope, coupled with the right amount of insulation, can make a real difference on your utility bills. Increase Comfort. Sealing leaks and adding insulation can improve the overall comfort of your home and help to fix many of these common problems: Reduced noise from outside Less pollen, dust and insects (or pests) entering your home Better humidity control Lower chance for ice dams on the roof/eves in snowy climates Most Homes Will Benefit. Most homes in the United States don't have enough insulation and have significant air leaks. Can I add new insulation on top of old insulation?
Do I have to take old insulation out of the attic before adding new (Home Insulation) Original insulation might actually be cottom balls or shredded cotton clothing - that was used from 40's into early 60's, particularly in the south and southeast states. A fair insulator, but susceptible to attracting moisture, and of course will rot. I would not consider reusing it. You do NOT want to insulate without first seeing to moisture control - if you throw a bunch of insulation over the drywall that forms the "floor" of your attic without first putting in a vapor barrier, you will end up condensing the moist house air that is going into the attic (and currently venting into the attic) within the insulation layer, ending up with a soggy insulation mess and eventually leading to rotting roof joists or trusses. This is very important and most people (and contractors) don't think of it or know about it - they tend to think more insulation is better.
Look several places under the existing insulation - is there a plastic "visqueen" sheet between the joists and the ceiling drywall ? How To Insulate Hot Water Pipes To Increase Energy Efficiency. From Associated Content, by Eric Brennan: The result will be cheaper utility bills without sacrificing water heat. You'll still have that steaming hot shower that you love, and help save our planet in the process. If your hot water pipes are not insulated, you are literally washing away hundreds of dollars each year. Non-insulated hot water pipes reduce water heat by 2 to 4 degrees, causing your hot water heater to work harder and use more electricity or gas. Bare hot water pipes also make you wait longer for hot water to come out of the faucets, wasting valuable water resources.
In a few hours and for a little extra cash, you can go green and insulate your hot water pipes. While it's possible to tape small strips of fiberglass insulation around your pipes, it's best to use a quality pipe insulation product. If price is an issue, neoprene and polyethylene foam pipe sleeves are typically the most common pipe wrap, and are some of the cheapest. Speed Wrap Pipe Insulation. Mineral Wool Rolls | Rigid-Wrap. SALES: Robert Price • (817) 834-8811 • rprice@eowood.com Rigid-Wrap is a heavy density mineral wool insulation designed to insulate rounded or irregular surfaces to 900ºF. Rigid-Wrap’s unique flexible property, with fiber perpendicular to the surface, allows a fast and easy one step application in the field. Its high compressive strength, teamed with a wide selection of factory applied facings and jacketing systems, make a neat job of every insulation project.
USES Rigid-Wrap is recommended for hot and cold, rounded or irregular surfaces such as: DuctsPlenumsFlangesFlanged fittingsBreechingsUnitsPipesTanksBoilers Superior thermal conductivityWide range of surface temperaturesLight weightApplicator friendlyGood compressive strengthNon wickingEasy to fabricate Maximum prevention of heat lossSub ambient to 900ºFSaves installation time and costLess irritatingLess jacket damageAllows temporary outdoor storage at jobsiteCuts easily with a knife. Outlook Magazine, your guide to industrial and commercial insulation. By Gordon H. Hart P.E. In most mechanical and boiler rooms, pipes and fittings such as elbows and tees are insulated with conventional pipe insulation. However, in the author's experience, the components (valves, strainers, pressure regulators, etc.) are either only partially insulated or totally uninsulated (bare). This lack of proper insulation wastes energy, creates a health and safety issue (i.e., hot components can cause burns), and produces unnecessary carbon dioxide emissions, and, in unventilated mechanical rooms, the resulting high air temperatures create a stressful work environment.
In this article, we'll explore simple solutions to improper insulation and a means of estimating the energy savings. Energy Savings by Insulating The National Mechanical Insulation Committee has recently developed a simple calculator for the Mechanical Insulation Design Guide (MIDG) that is available at www.wbdg.org/design/midg_design_echp.php. What does this mean for a 6 in. Reference 1. Author.