Narrow Shoulder Alteration. Anise Sew-along: Wide or Narrow Shoulder Adjustment So far, we covered a full bust adjustment for Anise today.
Here’s another set of alterations you can do from The Anise Companion: adjusting for wide or narrow shoulders. First, be sure to take a look at the blog post on fitting. Drafting Women's Front Bodice Sloper. Tutorial: Narrow Shoulder Adjustment. Good afternoon, lovely ones!
Back in January, when we asked for content suggestions, we had several requests for tutorials on shoulder adjustments. In theory, picking a size based on your high bust should give you a proper fit through your shoulders, but that’s not always the case. Shoulders are one of the largest areas of variance on the human body. Women with the exact same measurements everywhere else can have a huge range of shoulder measurements, thanks to genetics and lifestyle. Fitting_Shoulders-April. Wide or Narrow Shoulder Adjustment For our next Hawthorn alteration tutorial we are breaking down the wide/narrow shoulder adjustment.
I wanted to include this one because the shirtdress style is all about striking a balance between a masculine tailored look on top and a feminine flow on bottom. With that in mind, it is important that the cap of the sleeve hits the correct part of your shoulder. How do you know if you need an adjustment for shoulder width? If your shoulders are wide, the bodice might feel tight across the back. In front, it pulls across the upper chest. For narrow shoulders, the armholes sit too far out and off the shoulder.
The steps for these two common fit problems are the same up until the end, so whichever one you’re doing, follow along! Step 1: Mark in ⅝” seam allowance starting at the bottom of the armhole curve, up to the shoulder and over to the neckline. Step 2: Connect dots to fill in the seam allowance line. SewPetiteGal: Tutorial: Altering a Commercial Pattern for Petite Frames. I have the same problem with off-the-rack garments as I do with commercial patterns - the shoulders / neck are too wide and the waist often sits too low.
After some trial and error, I wanted to share a very easy (and non-permanent) modification you can make to your patterns to address these issues. Trial and error sewing w/ commercial patterns. Man Sewing - How to Hem Pants. Off The Cuff ~Sewing Style~: Shirt Pattern Alteration for Full Hips and Prominent Abdomen. Phat Chick Designs: Fitting Tutorial: Removing Neck Gape. One of the problems I face with many patterns is neck gape on commercial patterns.
It can be on the front, on the back, or even both. Some people might ask, "Well did you choose your pattern by your high bust measurement? " Yes, I did. My high bust measurement is about 34" which is a size 12 Big 4 pattern (McCall's, Butterick, Simplicity, and Vogue). My front width measurement also corresponds to a size 12 as per Nancy Ziemen's recommendation for pattern size in her book Fitting Finesse. So why do I get neck gape? Therefore, when I buy sewing patterns, even though I use the correct size for my figure, I often end up with neck gape. I am going to show you two (I have three total however) methods today that I use to remove neck gape on patterns.
The two methods are: 1. 2. Here is a miniature sample of a pattern front with the bust apex marked as a dot. Let's say I have a small amount of neck gape that I want to remove, not more than a 1/2". That broken line will now become the new CF. Learn & Perfect Pattern Alteration in: Sew the Perfect Fit, on Craftsy. Fit specialist Lynda Maynard works with three real women and shows you how to customize any pattern to your unique shape.
You won't believe how easy it is and how well it works! Create garments that fit and flatter your form with teacher and author Lynda Maynard. You'll never look at a paper pattern the same way again after watching this info-packed class. Lynda's techniques come to life on dress muslins fitted to three women, each with unique fitting challenges, including sloped shoulders, ample busts and flat backsides. Start by learning to "read" the fit muslin as it points you to the right places to adjust the garment. Lesson plan Lesson 1. Meet sewing teacher and author Lynda Maynard and learn about the Craftsy experience. Lesson 2. Take measurements on the included worksheet and prepare your pattern. Lesson 3. Pattern Alteration. Guide C-228 Wendy Hamilton College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State University Author: Extension Grants and Contracts Development Specialist, New Mexico State University (Print friendly PDF) A comfortable, attractive garment fits properly.
It is neither too large nor too small and conforms to the contours of the body without binding, pulling, sagging, straining, or wrinkling. Pattern adjustments and alterations are often necessary to achieve a good fit, especially in a form-fitting garment.