Making a new Extruder Nozzle Hot-End - DIY - using basic tools only Due to the cold evenings it's been hard to get work done, but it was mild last night and I managed to make a new Hot-End to go with my WADE Geared Extruder, it's loosly based on Adrian's new Hot-End - I first had a go at some heater blocks. - On the left was an attempt to make a Clamp version, but it was a bit big and didn't clamp very well around due to the mass of Brass and the short cut slot. In the middle was just about right, but I over-drilled the hole so tapping was not going to be good, but it was a easy part to make in the drill press and using HEX brass stock, note the small hole for the thermistor. On the right is the Brass screws I'm going to try to make into a hot-end, normal M6 thread, and it has a nice ready-made centre point in the head. Clamped in Vice with M6 Nuts to stop the body from getting squished. Clamped in Vice with level support under the PEEK then drilled with a Woodworking drill bit on the Drill press. RichRap
rev.3 assembly: Extrusion head Step 4 - the EXTRUDER What you'll need Before you start, please read this carefully! If you are updating from Hot end V1, you have to disassemble your extruder head first. Unscrew the small C parts in the sliding blocks that keep your axis in its place. Tools 1 HEX-screwdriver supplied by Ultimaker 1 Small flat screwdriver You need these parts This is the goal: Lets start! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. (You can also decide to install your strain relief the other way around. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Assembling the cooling fan 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Congrats! The fan will be connected to the long black cable-assembly later (it shouldn't go onto the small circuit board). Mounting the housing to the XY-frame The extruder can now be placed in the XY-frame. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. loosen ALL 8 tightening screws (only the ones that are on a long timing belt) of the pulleys then adjusted the squareness of the extruder axes and tighten the screws again. 11.
Wireless RepRap: Demystifying the Hot End Now that I have decided what I will be doing with the electronics, I need to decide on how I will go about building the hot end. I want to know how much the Prusa will cost me before I go ahead buying parts for something I might not have the money to complete; the only part that is still completely unknown is the hot end. What is the hot end? The hot end is the part that melts the plastic; it is the nozzle, or "pen" of the 3D printer. For most people, I seriously recommend buying a kit or a premade hot end unless you have the ability to machine quality parts. What Makes Up a Hot End? Let's start with the most obvious part of the hot end. The next part is the thermistor. The other parts of the hot end differ depending on the design. NOTE: This is very important. Hot End Information There are so many pages dedicated to hot ends on the wiki, it is a bit overwhelming if you don't know where to start. The last hot end design which I will mention is Arcol's hot end. Conclusion
Universal Mini Extruder RepRap Universal Mini Extruder Release status: working Introduction This printable extruder is intended to work on RepRap Mendel, RepRap Huxley, and virtually any other open-source 3D printer you can find. It features: 1.75 mm filament Adaptable mounting plate to attach it to virtually any 3D printer Very compact high-torque NEMA 11 motor Active ducted fan cooling for high reliability Wade-style hobbed bolt filament transport Wing-nut drive to spread the torque loading on the plastic gears Push-fit hot-end parts - no thread cutting Easily replaced PTFE liner for the hot end A single M3-threaded rod cut to lengths makes all the fixings Lightweight: 330g (about 50% the weight of this extruder) Compact design (110 mm x 90 mm x 80 mm) I based this design (loosely) on Jstkatz's extruder on Thingiverse, in particular, the idea of using a lever to trap the filament against its drive. Front view Rear view OpenSCAD design. Bill of materials Here is the complete bill of materials: A useful tool
Hot End Maintenance - Looking after your hot end | Next Day Reprap We thought we’d share some best practice and guidance for working with your hot end. There are very strong forces involved with the extruder, the stepper motor combined with the hobbed bolt can exert a great deal of force on the hot end, on occasion the hot end may slip out of the hot end clamp. This isn’t a disaster, in fact it protects your build bed and extruder from potential damage. There a few potential reasons this may happen. 1. Hot End pushed out of clamp If your Hot End has slipped out as below, you may be able to push the hot end back into the clamp and extruder, by turning “motors off” in the pronterface software and then manually turning the extruder driven gear in reverse, whilst at the same time holding the hot end block with pliers/mole grips and pushing it back into position. It is very important that the hot end homes 100% within the clamp and the extruder, any gap will potentially cause extrusion issues. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Now pull the cut filament out of the hot end.
Print Head: Hot End Assembly | Thames Valley RepRap User Group About the Hot End The hot end that you will be building is a J Head Mk III-B from Brian Reifsnyder. The parts J Head hot end: Nozzle PTFE liner Heating Resistor 100KΩ Thermistor PEEK thermal barrier/extruder body Mounting washer PTFE tubes See Heatshrink & PTFE Reference for details. Small PTFE tube Transparent tube. Large PTFE tube Transparent tube. Heatshrinks: Small high temp heatshrink 2mm diameter, transparent. Large high temp heatshrink 4.8mm diameter, transparent. Large "normal" heatshrink 4.5mm diameter, black. Bootlace ferrules: Small bootlace ferrule Large bootlace ferrule Cables: See Wires Reference for details. Extruder thermistor cable Single twisted pair. High temperature extruder resistor cable Extruder resistor extension cable White lamp cable. Assembly Step 1 Measure the gap between the top of the brass extruder and the bottom of the black PEEK extruder body. Step 2 Put a 13mm (or 1/2"AF) spanner on the flats at the bottom of the black PEEK extruder body. Repeat for the other lead.