background preloader

Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing: The Renaissance Tailor

Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing: The Renaissance Tailor
Demonstrations>Pattern Development>Basic Pattern Drafting Does the thought of making your own patterns leave you in a cold sweat? Does the thought of making patterns for other people make your hands clammy? This demonstration will show how to draft what is known as a "Basic Body Block" for the torso. What and Where to Measure - Get a fairly wide and long piece of paper. To Start - On your body, find your natural waist and measure from there to where the clavicle bones meet at the hollow of your throat. Measure around your waist and divide this by four. Now measure from your natural waist to your arm pit or where ever you are most comfortable with your armseye landing. Measure your chest, making sure that the tape is around the widest part of your chest. As you can see in the example above, the addition of green line shows where your center side is. Measure from the shoulder bone to where your neck and shoulder join and draw this line as in the example above. First, add the front point.

Square Dance Sewing Home Page How to Make a Peasant Blouse Choose your fabric. If you are going for the authentic “peasant” look, you will need off-white or light tan material with a slightly rustic appearance. Unbleached muslin works well. If you are making a blouse for a gypsy costume, choose a bright color such as purple or green. Cut out your body pieces. Determine your sleeve length by measuring your arms from halfway between your neck and your shoulder to your wrist. Cut the 4 pieces from the fabric. Sew the sleeves on. Stitch the side seams. Hem the blouse. Finish the neck. Determine how low you want the neck of your blouse to hang – off one shoulder, off both shoulders, or maybe a modest halfway between your neck and shoulders. Finish the sleeves. Pin the ribbon to the wrong side (inside) of the sleeve 2 to 3 inches up from the hem.

Pioneer Clothing for Handcart Trek Dressing in pioneer clothing can have a tremendous impact on the spirit of the trek. The following is a short description of how pioneers dressed and it is our hope that the youth will dress likewise for the trek. Each Ward will have a Clothing Specialist called who will help all their youth get their clothing together. The Ward Clothing Specialist will work with the Stake Clothing Specialist to make sure everyone has the clothes they need for the trek. Men’s clothing: Men’s shirts worn loose. Pants were also worn loose. Suspenders; Men’s pants were held up by suspenders that were buttoned on the outside of the waistband, and crossed in the back. Hats: Men’s everyday hats ranged from pilot caps, straw hats, wide brimmed low felt hats, or round crowned hat. Ties; Usually vests/ties were worn only on Sunday or when attending a meeting or social event. Women’s clothing: **Pricing: The Stake Clothing Specialist purchased enough material to make an apron, bonnet, and skirt. Clothing Patterns

Pioneer Women Only in America can we celebrate the role of Pioneer Women, as they quite literally stitched together the fabric and families who settled this country. As much as they may have yearned for the silks and bustles they left behind, the rigors of traveling by wagon train or on foot made dressing as they would have on the East coast impractical. Still, these brave ladies managed to dress themselves and their families well enough with the materials available to them; usually in cotton, muslin, or wool. Yardage of any description was valued in the new West, and ladies would make use of every bit they had. Life on a farm had its influence on ladies clothing, and the hemlines were raised a bit to save them from dirt and wear. Even though luxury had been left behind, prairie women still took great pains to make their clothing attractive. As you look through these dresses, we hope you will enjoy having something that is comfortable and easy to wear as well as pretty and romantic!

Kannik's Korner - Historic Clothing Patterns and Books Turned Edge Applique Tutorial (May Day Basket) Part 2 - The Crafty Quilter Today, I have a turned edge applique tutorial to share that I used for this project. This is turned edge applique as opposed to raw edge applique. With turned edge applique, you don’t need to finish the edges of your applique shapes with a blanket stitch or satin stitch. You can find Part 1 of this project here and Part 3 is here. Here are the tools you’ll need for the applique: Fabric scrapsFusible lightweight interfacingStraw (the wider the better)Ball point bodkin (yep, that’s not a typo)Seam ripperWooden pressing toolMonofilament or “invisible” threadPerfect Circles, by Karen Kay Buckley (optional)Flower Placement Diagram A Ball Point Bodkin is the tool shown at the top of the picture above. Steps for making turned edge applique shapes with fusible interfacing: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. and traced it onto the wrong side of the fabric. 12. 13. Sorry for the blurry picture. 14. 15. . If making circles seems like too much trouble, you could always use buttons – just as cute! 16.

Nordic Mini QAL, Row 4 and Finishing - The Crafty Quilter We’re on to Row 4 (the last row) of the Nordic Mini QAL and I have some finishing instructions for you, too. You can find links for the other rows below: This last row consists of three Nordic heart blocks. In Nordic tradition (at least in Norway), the basket weave heart is called a ‘flettet julekurv’. And once you’ve made your Nordic hearts, you can put all of the rows together. Each heart consists of a 9-patch and two appliqued half circles. So let’s get to it! Cutting Instructions: (corrected 12/2/14) Red: (2) 1 1/4” x 9” rectangles, (1) 1 1/4” x 9” rectangle, (3) 2” x 3” rectanglesRed/white print: (1) 1 1/4” x 9” rectangle, (2) 1 1/4” x 9” rectangles, (3) 2” x 3” rectanglesWhite: (6) 2” x 3” rectangles, (3) 1 3/4” squares, (2) 2 1/4” x 4” rectanglesFusible Interfacing: (6) 2″ x 3″ rectangles Assembly Instructions: 1. Stitch red and red/white print strips together as shown below. Sub-cut into 1 1/4” segments. 2. Print out the Nordic Heart Templates at full scale. 3. 4. 5. Save

Pieced Shapes Tutorial I have been putting off finishing my Halloween swap blocks because they were so labor intensive. (I know, doesn't make much sense, but there we are) I used this awesome tutorial and loved how the one fully finished block looked, but the end process of turning it into a candy corn shape was tricky due to the tight curves. (Sorry, looks like the linked tutorial blog is dead...) While reading Kris' blog, I found a new way to make my shapes and I love it! First, join several fabric strips together so that they are at least 1/4" larger overall than your final shape. Then I cut my candy corn shape from freezer paper. Pin your strips to a piece of light weight fusible interfacing. Carefully sew just outside your freezer paper shape. Once you're all the way around, peel off the freezer paper and save for re-use. Now trim all around your shape, leaving about 1/4" seam allowance. VERY CAREFULLY cut a slit in the center of your interfacing, and start to turn....

Tilly and the Buttons: Sixties Stripe Coco Yes, it's another one (sigh). The Coco sewing pattern bien sûr, this time I made the top version with funnel neck and small patch pockets with stripes in a contrasting direction. I'd been dreaming and scheming about creating a striped funnel neck top since seeing this Boden top and, if you follow me on Instagram (I'm on Instagram!), you'll know I started this top quite a while ago. A "while ago" in Coco terms, that is, it's usually a one-sitting make. You may recognise the fabric from my Coco dress with yellow pockets - it's the very same, bought from The Cloth House. Now I'm dreaming of a sleeveless version like Audrey's.

Tutorial pantuflas patchwork / Patchwork Slippers Tutorial. Hola!!! A pedido del público (?) hice este tutorial de pantuflas patchwork que, en rigor, puede hacerse con cualquier tela de algodón que les guste. Primero copiamos en una hoja el molde de una pantufla que será la base de la nuestra. Una vez que la tuve en papel, la pase a pañoleci para probar si encajaban bien las partes y si, fundamentalmente, entraba comodo mi pié. Eso lo hice cosiendo el borde la parte de arriba a la base. En el medio de ambas partes, coloqué guata no muy ancha, pero en realidad podrían poner pañoleci o polar, e incluso si la quieren mas ancha, guata mas gruesa. Pegué todas la partes con pegamento en aerosol, y corté un trozo de cinta bies para coser en la parte inferior. Cosí uno de los lados. Y luego cosí el otro, quedando de ésta manera. Luego de coser el bies, procedí a realizar el acolchado libre o free motion quilting. Así quedó del revés y del derecho. Una vez que tenemos lista la parte de arriba, vamos con la de abajo. va a quedar algo como ésto.

10 for Tuesday: Printable Sewing Tools I love when things are free, but these free printables also can save you money on expensive rulers and sewing tools. While the real thing is usually best, tight budgets mean you can't afford to go buy and new ruler or tool for every project. I've found 10 awesome printable sewing tools, from rulers to french curves, bia tapes makers, hem guides, and even some practice sewing sheets. Printable Pattern Making Tools from The Sewing Notebook: Includes a right triangle (also usable as a compass), french curves, and hip curves in metric and imperial. Happy Sewing! Pattern Making how-to videos - University of Fashion Recommended Lesson Order To begin, start by learning how to draft a collection of slopers. These slopers will become the foundation for all of your future designs. In our “Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice from Measurements” lesson, you will be able to draft a bodice from actual body measurements, from those of your dress form or from those listed on our Women’s Bodice Global Size Range Chart, one of the many free downloadable files we provide to our subscribers with this lesson. When you have finished drafting your bodice sloper, you will be able to advance to our dart-pivoting series of lessons where you will learn how to transfer darts to other areas of a bodice and draft a series of different necklines. To complete your set of foundational slopers, move to our lessons on how to draft a Straight Sleeve Sloper, a Basic Pant Sloper, a Straight Skirt Sloper and our lesson on how to convert a Bodice Sloper to a Fitted Torso Sloper.

33 Essential Sewing Terms and Phrases When you learn to sew, you’re introduced to slew of new vocabulary words and phrases. To help you understand these words and phrases, and be more conversational about your new craft, we’ve put together this glossary of sewing terms from Columbus, OH teacher Nikki D… “May your bobbin always be full!” From Appliqué to Zig-zag, class is in session, welcome to sewing 101! Sewing Machine Terms Whether it’s your first time sewing on a machine, or you’ve been using one for years, you might not know the name of all the parts on your sewing machine – or even what they do! Bobbin: The bobbin is a spindle or cylinder placed on the bottom of the sewing machine. Foot Pedal: Step on the foot pedal to power your sewing machine. Presser Foot: This is NOT the same as the foot pedal on the floor that you step on to make your sewing machine work. Hand Wheel: Use the hand wheel to adjust the needle height. Thread Cutter: Some sewing machines come with built-in thread cutters. Basic Sewing Terms Happy sewing!

Related: