How to Grade Seam Allowances Here I am, again, after 3 months away, to fill another tutorial need. If you want something done right... When you're sewing thick fabrics, or several layers, or just sewing a small enough project that every detail matters, you may want to grade your seams. It's simple to do. On a garment with a lining or facing, when all the layers of a seam allowance are cut to the same width, they can leave a bulky lump along the edge of the garment. I've run the iron along the edge of the seam allowance to make it show up better for the picture. To ease the transition from seam allowance to main expanse, trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width. And here you can see the second layer of the seam allowance trimmed to a width between the outer fabric and the inner fabric. On a lined garment, you can usually trim quite close to the stitching without fear of it raveling enough to come apart at the seam. Here is the same seam seen from the outside after grading.
Make Your Own Clothing Labels This is part 2 of my 3 part label tutorial for textiles like clothing and bedding. Here are the 3 chapters: part 1 – what to say (or what the FTC wants you to put on your labels) part 2 – how to make them (DIY process of printing & cutting the labels on fabric) [you are here] part 3 – how to attach them (considerations for comfortable labels) This photo tutorial will walk you through how to print your own fabric labels and some lessons I’ve learned along the way. Step 1 – choose your treated fabric for your labels. In order for your printer ink to stain the fibers and last, you must use 100% natural fibers. If you don’t want to treat the fabric yourself, you can buy pretreated fabric sheets for your printer at craft stores or google them. And here is why picking your own fabric is important: you want your clothing labels to be comfortable when the garment is worn, and you don’t want them to unravel. I’ve got 2 fabric options for making your own labels that are comfortable: Done!
Appliqueing With Used Dryer Sheets i'm not a big time holiday or season decorator. what i have up is what i have up all year round, usually. except for a little something here and there.well here's a tutorial to add a little something springish to your home.oh and i'm going to show you how you can use old dryer sheets to make it happen. what you will need.scraps of fabric (i used one of my opened charm packs of kate spain's Verna line for moda. love that line!)a metal hoop. or a wood one will be just fine as well.dryer sheet that's been used already in your dryer. so your dryer sheet right as it comes out of the dryer is probably really wrinkled. with a sharpie i traced my drawn egg onto my ironed dryer sheet. originally i was going to do a small egg and a big one, but i changed my mind so please ignore the big egg in these two pictures. pretend it's not there. like the man behind the curtain. next you are going to take your dryer sheet and place it on top of your fabric (right side facing UP.) sew on your drawn on line.
Shortcut Ruffling Technique and Faux Rolled Hem Method Life is hectic. Funds are short. So any time I can find ways to streamline the creative process, I am beyond thrilled. Today I’m going to share with you a couple of tricks I’ve been utilizing of late in my sewing projects. Tip #1: Fuss-Free Ruffles Gathering stitches. The whole process couldn’t be simpler… Cut strips of fabric to your desired width.Set your machine’s tension to its highest setting and the stitch length to the longest possible length.Stitch down the center of the strips. Admittedly, this technique probably wouldn’t be ideal for garment construction, because adjusting the ruffles as needed might be a challenge. Tip #2: Faux Rolled Hems Using a serger to finish raw edges with a rolled hem is a true sewing time-saver. Once you have purchased your foot, read up on how to attach it to your machine in the instruction booklet that comes with your foot. Once you’ve installed the foot on your machine, creating a rolled hem is as easy as stitching any standard zig-zag stitch:
Fabric Labels Tutorial Many people have asked me how I make my labels so I have decided to make this little tutorial including pictures and any little tips that I have learned along the way. You will find that making your own labels is quite simple and much cheaper than purchasing custom labels. Pour yourself a cup of tea and enjoy. Materials needed:computer, graphics program (I used photoshop) & inkjet printerregular printer paperiron-on transfer paperutility knife, cutting mat & metal rulerribbon (I used 1/2 inch natural cotton twill tape)iron & ironing boardscissors Step 1: Design your image using your program of choice working with a resolution of 300ppi for a clear image. Step 2: Print your labels. Step 3: Cut out the images preferably into long strips using your utility knife, cutting mat and ruler. Step 4: Iron the transfer onto the ribbon. Step 5: Peel off the backing paper. Step 6: Use them! You could also make laundering instruction labels, and quilt labels using this same method!
Tapering Or Widening Pants Pattern Taper your pants for a custon fit. by Karen Howlandfrom Threads #67, pgs. 24, 26 I need to taper the leg width of a pants pattern that fits well otherwise. Is this more complicated than just trimming down the leg seams? Do I reduce front and back equally? Start by noting the widths you want at hem and knee levels, then measure the distance from hem to knee line. Unfold and cut both pieces horizontally at the knee. Now, repeat the entire process for the lower-back pattern piece, this time adding 1 in. to the knee and hem widths before dividing by 4. Tapering Pants: Steps 1 and 2: The only exception to this procedure is if your figure is so flat in front that you don't need a front waistline dart. Next, we'll reattach the upper patterns to their respective lower parts, starting with the fronts. The top will extend beyond the corrected seamlines on both in- and outseams, and we'll correct each side separately, starting with the outseam. Now for the inseam. Tapering Pants: Steps 3 and 4
A Guide to Seam Finishes Hello there! If you are new here, you might want to subscribe via email so you don't miss a post. When I was younger, I was all about sewing as quickly as I could. A seam finish, if I did one at all, was a quick clip with the pinking shears. But now I really enjoy nicely finished seams. Or rushing through with the serger. This stitch is done with 3, 4 or 5 threads on a serger. This type of stitch is essentially a zig-zag stitch done with the needle hitting just over the edge of the fabric on one side. A French Seam is made like this: Pin pieces together with wrong sides together, using a 1/4″ seam SewFlip the pieces to right sides together, and stitch the seam againThe raw edges should be encased inside the seamIf you look at it from the side, you can see the raw edges inside the seam To do a Flat Felled seam follow these steps: A flat felled seam can also be done starting with wrong sides together; this will give you a ridge on the outside like you normally see on jeans.
DIY Custom Fabric Labels Custom clothing labels using iron-on transfers (©2005, www.grumperina.com. Updated September 13th, 2010. Information and images contained within this tutorial are copyrighted and cannot be used for any unintended purposes without my explicit permission. E-mail me.) Many people have asked how I make these adorable and completely customized labels for my handknits: It's simple, cheap, creative, and allows me to put the recipient's name, fabric content, care instructions, and even a little cartoon on the label! Click here to proceed with the tutorial: You will need: - inkjet printer - iron (no steam!) - satin ribbon, 5/8" - 1/2" wide, or whatever is suitable for your project - anti-fraying liquid (Fray Check , Fray Block, etc.) - iron-on transfers, whichever are suitable for your printer. Let's get started! You will need to design your label using graphic software. Follow the instructions on your iron-on transfers. You can reuse the same iron-on transfer paper over and over again. Ta da! All done!
Understanding Lining Fabric + Resources This is a follow-up post to this post and again, if you don’t have Easy Guide to Sewing Linings by Connie Long, you need it and you should buy the e-book right now! Today, I wanted to share my online resources plus a few tips on what kinds of fabrics can work as a lining. Sometimes ideas from others make a big difference in how we view the usefulness of a fabric. bemberg rayon lining First let’s talk lining fabrics and what kinds of fabrics work as linings that aren’t labeled “linings.” silk charmeuse solid & printed Let me acquaint you with my favorite luxury lining – silk charmeuse. silk crepe de chine, printed & solid There are other types of silks that work great as linings as well, including crepe de chine and china silk. hammered polyester charmeuse I’ve had a lot of people say that they would love to use “printed linings” more often if they could only find them. from left to right, knit lining and two stretch woven linings What about linings for stretch fabrics?
How to Easily Hem Sheer Fabrics - CraftStylish excerpted from SewStylish Spring '09 See-through fabrics were front and center on the runways this season in everything from skirts and jacekts to dresses and skirts. Take a tip from a real-life couturier, Kenneth King: Hem those tricky sheers with pearl cotton thread and a simple technique. 1. 2. 3. 4.