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Standing Double Crochet - Joining Without the Slip Stitch and Chain!

Standing Double Crochet - Joining Without the Slip Stitch and Chain!
The Standing Double Crochet stitch is one I came to late – and I wish I’d known about it years earlier! It’s not a stitch that you’ll usually find specified in a pattern, and as such it has no standard abbreviation. What it is, is a technique – one that will allow you to start a new row on a crochet project without having to use the telltale “join with a slip stitch and chain 3” – and I can’t wait to share it with you! Video Tutorial: Standing Double Crochet – Right Handed Left Handed Photo Tutorial for the Standing Double Crochet Step 1: Hold the yarn end with the last two fingers of your hook-holding hand. So what do you think? NOTE: Several different people have now written to me, claiming that they invented this technique. Related:  Virka

Chainless Starting Double Crochet: Video and Photo Tutorial This little crochet trick has been invented and reinvented repeatedly over the years! And the Chainless Starting Double Crochet stitch IS tricky – it definitely takes some practice. But it’s worth it, because it tricks the eye – and makes the telltale starting chain obsolete! Learn how to make it in this tutorial! Now don’t get this stitch confused with the Standing Double Crochet! Chainless Starting Double Crochet Video Tutorial – Right Handed Left Handed Chainless Starting Double Crochet Written Instructions The Chainless Starting Double is worked as the first st of a row, to replace a chain 2 or chain 3 start – the usual method of working the “first dc” of a row. To make the stitch, pull up the loop on the hook to the height of a normal dc st. Hold the forefinger of your hook-holding hand on top of the stretched loop, against the hook, so it can’t move. Yarn over the hook with the stretched loop, so that the loop is wrapped around the hook as shown below.

Larksfoot Crochet Pattern Stitch - Baby Afghan Larksfoot Crochet Stitch - Baby Afghan Video Tutorial: Larks Foot Crochet Stitch - Baby AfghanVideo Tutorial: Larksfoot Crochet Pattern Stitch Left Hand Tutorial Written by Teresa Richardson Extended or Long Double Crochet - This is where you will work a double crochet several stitches below the row you are on. Multiple: 4 You will add 4 chains for each segment of the pattern stitch that you want to add to the width. Example: If you want to make a baby afghan with a size I/5.5mm crochet hook, 4-ply yarn, you will chain 108. Ch 31Row 1: DC in 3rd CH from hook, DC in next CH, *CH 1, SK 1 CH, 1 DC in EA of next 3 CH. Row 2: CH 3, 1 DC in EA of next 2 DC, *CH 1, SK CH, 1 DC in EA of next 3 DC. Row 3: CH 4, this will count as the first DC, CH 1, Sk the next DC, DC in the next DC, work an extended DC below the 2 previous CH 1 spaces. Row 4: CH 4, this will count as the first DC, 1 DC in EA of the next 3 DC, *CH 1, 1 DC in EA of the next 3 DC . Repeat rows 3-6.

How to Crochet 5: Seaming Your Work In this how-to series we could move right on from single crochet to the other stitches (double crochet, half double crochet and triple crochet) but I'm pausing to talk about "seaming" because if you want to make anything other than washcloths or rectangular scarves or afghans (which are all good) you're going to need to seam some pieces together. Seaming is a good skill to have and it can be the difference between a cute sweater looking handmade instead of homemade. I am going to share two different methods. The first is the invisible mattress stitch, which works equally well for knitting or crochet by the way, and the second seaming method uses a single crochet stitch. Click to view the full tutorial. SEAMING WITH THE MATTRESS STITCH: You will need a tapestry needle to do the seaming, which is a large blunt needle and a big eye for threading the yarn. The mattress stitch is so fabulous because it's virtually invisible if you line up the stitches correctly. That is the mattress stitch!

nimm.blogg.se - Sytt, stickat och virkat. Låt kreativiteten flöda. Vid frågor eller förfrågningar, kontakta mig på nimm.blogg.se Virkat fåglar, hittade inget mönster så jag fick göra ett eget. Det kommer längre ner om du också vill virka fåglar :) Jag har virkat med Tilda Multigarn, nål 3. Gör så här: Börja med vingarna. - Gör en magisk ring med 6 fm - 2 fm i varje fm varvet ut (12m) - 2 fm i varannan fm varvet ut (18 m) Kroppen: - Gör en magisk ring med 6 fm - 2 fm i varje fm varvet ut (12m) - 2 fm i varannan fm varvet ut (18 m) - 2 fm i var tredje fm varvet ut (24 m) - 2 fm i var fjärde fm varvet ut (30 m) - 2 fm i var femte fm varvet ut (36 m) - 5 varv fm (36 m) Nu ska du virka med vingarna. - Därefter påbörjar du minskningarna, virka ihop den femte och sjätte maskan, varvet ut (30 fm) - Virka ihop fjärde och femte maskan, varvet ut (24 fm) - Virka tre varv med 24 fm - Virka ihop tredje och fjärde maskan, varvet ut (18 fm) - Fyll med vadd - Virka ihop andra och tredje maskan, varvet ut (12 fm) - Virka ihop två maskor åt gången (6 fm), spara en bit tråd så att du kan sy ihop hålet. Stjärtfjädern: Brodera dit en nos. Katt

Tutorial: Foundation Single Crochet This foundation single crochet tutorial is broken down by each teeny-tiny step and includes a quick video demonstration at the end. When I first attempted to learn this technique from a magazine, I had pretty good illustrations to go by, but I was still totally confused by the whole thing. It took me 3 or 4 tries over a couple of months to even feel confident that I was doing this correctly. Hopefully with photos of each step, you'll be able to learn this a little easier than I did. Foundation single crochet is a wonderful technique. For using a foundation single crochet row in the middle of your crochet piece, like the handles of my handbag or the armholes in a sweater, check out my foundation single crochet supplement. Foundation crochet stitches were developed by (or popularized by - I haven't actually seen his book, so I don't know if he came up with this himself or if he discovered the technique from another source) Bill Elmore. The reasons foundation stitches awesome are: 1. 2. 3.

Neat Ripple Pattern Ahhhhhhhh look at all those hooky ripplesome ripples, aren't they glorious? I love crocheting this pattern, its relatively simple, rhythmic and soothing, but playing with colours in this way is also energising, exciting and a lot of fun. Well to me it is any road. there's something magical and mesmerising about the way the ripple effect makes the colours sing and dance next to each other, and it's a pattern I can see myself coming back to time after time. When I made my first ripple blanket last year (finished in August 2008), I followed a pattern in Jan Eatons book (the Soft Waves pattern), and it has to be said that at first this pattern was not plain sailing. But I persevered and eventually I cracked it. So what I've done here for you is to write my own pattern. To start out, you need to crochet your foundation chain. Once you are sure you've got the right number of chains to begin (count carefully as you make them!) Yarn over, draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook, as pictured above)

Hat Sizing Chart - Make the perfect sized hat the first time! - Hat Sizing Chart Getting the sizing right can be very frustrating when you’re designing a new hat pattern. I recently put this hat sizing chart together to try and make that process a little smoother. How to Use this Chart: Each finished hat size is determined by the Crown Circle Diameter. Click photo to view PDF This is the formula I used to get the Crown Circle Diameter necessary to obtain the finished hat circumference you want: Head Circumference / 3 = ___ – 1 = Crown Circle Diameter. EXAMPLE: Let’s say you’re making hat for a 0-3 Month old baby. This is the formula I used to get the Hat Height: Head Circumference x 0.4 = Hat Height. EXAMPLE: Lets use our 0-3 Month old baby hat again. You can use these equations for any hat circumference you need to obtain. If you like this Hat Sizing Chart, please share it! To see how to use this chart to make perfectly sized Bottom Up Hats see this post:

TUTORIAL: LINING A CROCHETED BAG… « while they play… Lining a crocheted bag: Write down the width and add 1/2″ for (2) 1/4″ seam allowances. example: width is 8″+ 1/2″ = 8.5″ Write down the height and multiply by 2. example: height is 6″ X 2 =12″. Now, add 1″ for (2) 1/2″ folds. example: 12″ + 1″ =13″. Now make your cuts… Set aside and use the following formula for your pocket. For example: for a 5″W by 3″ H pocket…. 5″ + 1/2″ (2) 1/4″ seam allowances.width: 5.5″. 3″ X 2 = 6″ + .5″ (2) 1/4″ seam allowances.height: 6.5″. Now, make your cuts… Lay fabric down wrong side facing up.Create 1/2″ folds in both the top and the bottom of the piece and press with an iron. Now, sew the folds down using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Set aside.MAKE YOUR POCKET… Fold the piece in half, right sides facing and press with iron. Sew around the edges using a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a space of about 2″ in the top center. Pull the pocket right side out and press with iron…. Pin pocket to bag lining, so that the opening of the pocket is at the bottom… Press the side seams open….

How to Crochet: Double Crochet with Beads By Robin Beers – 19 Comments The materials you need are crochet thread or yarn, beads and a needle. I am using larger beads here so I use a tapestry needle to string them onto my yarn. Note: If you are left handed, just put your mouse over the photo for a left-handed view. First string the beads onto your crochet thread or yarn. Remember to put enough beads on. Begin crocheting the desired number of stitches, pushing the beads down out of your way. Yarn over, then insert crochet hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on the hook keeping the bead in place. Now bring the bead up from the back to the front of the work with your finger and hold in place. (Bring it around both loops, not through them.) Keep the bead secure in front with your finger while you yarn over and pull through the final 2 loops on the hook to complete the double crochet stitch. This is how you add beads to your double crochet work!

Gör din cykel redo för hösten med ett virkat sadelskydd! Här får du mönstret till vår favorit 1. Stilrent med grått Källa 2. Källa 3. Källa 4. Källa 5. Källa 6. Källa 7. Källa 8. Källa 9. Källa 10. Vår favorit från skapligt enkelt Här är virkbeskrivningen till sadelskyddet Sadelskyddet från skapligt enkelt är virkat för att passa en ganska mullig typ av cykelsadel. Du behöver:Garn: Sunny (Gör man ett enfärgat skydd räcker det med ett nystan)Virknål: 2,5 mm Gör så här: Först virkas ovandelen genom att man virkar fasta maskor (fm) fram och tillbaka. Nu är det dags att börja virka kanten. v 1: Virka fm runt hela arbetet med ungefär 1fm i varje varv så att du får 135-140 fm på hela varvet. Källa

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